Norwegian Coastal Express

The ad campaigns for the Hurtigrute sell it as "The most beautiful voyage in the world" and in late summer sunshine it is simply that.We´d been on the route before, three years ago - but that was a short stretch up in N Norway to get us to Lofoten.

Originally, the Hurtigrute was the most important communication link between the north and south of the country. Today, it earns much of its keep from lots of SKI-ing pensioners. But the ships are primarily working vessels operating a regular service to a set timetable - so although passenger comfort is a key issue, there is no organised entertainment programme. We´re with the passengers from Hamburg who told an American journalist that they appreciated the no-nonsense atmosphere. Maybe it´s because we´re sturdy Northern Europeans and we knew that we were simply making use of public transport.

If it´s the grey kronor the ferry company is after that may have to change as the government seeks to minimise the subsidy it pays. But hopefully they won´t spoil the experience


Yet again, we couldn´t believe how lucky we were with the weather. We were heading to Bergen - famous for being very rainy! Yet the sunshine across the country was newsworthy enough to merit a page in one of the tabloids.

The scenery is stunning and no words can do it justice. We amused ourselves spotting trolls in the rocks. Travelling at less than 20 mph is very relaxing and you can sit and read and look up and see something new. 

The catering´s not bad either. When we saw the menu for dinner we had to grin. OK it´s the last night of the "classic" voyage, but reindeer and salmon are about as Scandinavian as you can get. Suited us to T.

We were seated at the officers´ table - (unfortunately not with any of the crew)

Reckon about 72 hours is the most I could manage in one stretch, but be more than happy to break up the journey - and we seem to be doing it in bits any way.